Garage roofs

Garage Roofs: Repair, Recover or Replace

On most properties the garage carries the oldest covering on the site, and frequently the one nobody has ever got round to renewing. It is also the roof least like the house roof: no heating under it, no insulation in it, frequently a single layer laid straight over boards decades ago, and a slope that was whatever the joists happened to have. That is why it gets its own page.

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The difference

Why a garage roof is not a small version of the house roof

Because almost nothing that governs a roof over a room applies to one over a car. There is no warm damp air rising into the build-up from a kitchen or a bathroom, so the condensation problem that drives so much modern specification barely arises. There is usually no insulation to get wet, which removes the finding that normally forces a renewal. And there is nobody standing underneath to notice a stain, which removes the alarm that gets a house roof looked at in year one rather than year fifteen.

Nothing up there is ever warm

That absence of heat cuts both ways, and the second half is the half that matters. A roof over a heated room gets a slow assist from the building itself: the structure runs above outdoor temperature for months of the year, so a small amount of moisture that reaches the boards has a chance of leaving again. A garage gives its roof no such help. Water that gets into the boarding in October is still in it in March, working, and that is why a garage roof can look merely tired for a decade and then fail structurally in a single season.

It is the roof people patch themselves

Low, reachable from a ladder, with no ceiling below to ruin: the garage is where a homeowner tries the repair first, and where the previous owner tried one before that. So we routinely lift a garage covering and find bitumen emulsion brushed out of a tin over the splits, flashing tape across a lap, a second sheet nailed over the first. None of it is stupid and some of it bought real time. What it does is hide the surface from anybody trying to read it later, and add weight to a structure that was never asked to carry three coverings.

Failure

What fails on a garage roof, and in what order

Remarkably consistently, and almost always from the outside in. Knowing the order is useful, because the stage a roof has reached decides which of the three options below is honest.

  1. The edge, first and always. On most garages the covering is turned over a bare timber edge with no drip trim beneath it. Water reaching that lip runs back along the underside instead of falling clear, and does so on every wet day for thirty years. The fascia softens, then the outermost few inches of deck behind it.
  2. The surface. The mineral finish weathers away, the bitumen hardens, and the sheet stops being able to move with the boards underneath it.
  3. The field splits. Timber moves with the seasons and a hardened sheet cannot follow it, so cracks open along the board joints in straight lines. That straightness is how a survey tells them apart from impact damage, which is where somebody put a foot or a ladder.
  4. The boarding. Once water is through, it stays, for the reason given above. This is the stage at which the cost of the job changes character.
  5. The bearing. Last, and worst: the joist ends where they sit on the wall. Rot arrives here latest and matters most, because it stops being a roofing problem.

The boards

Why the boarding decides more here than almost anywhere

On a house roof the deciding question is usually the insulation: whether water has spread through it and whether it can be saved. A garage roof has no insulation to answer for, so the entire decision drops onto the boards, and unusually for roofing you can establish their condition without instruments. Sound boarding takes weight without movement. Boarding that has been wet gives underfoot, particularly along the outer row and around whatever passes for an outlet.

That single test is worth more on a garage than any amount of surface inspection, and it is also why the same roof can be a modest job or a substantial one with nothing visible from the ground to tell you which. Renewing failed boarding, and the wall plate under it where the wet has travelled that far, is structural work in its own right, priced as such and not tucked into a covering rate.

The fall, or the absence of one

Very few garages were built with a designed slope. The roof fell whichever way the joists were laid, by however much they happened to be out, and forty years of gentle sag has since had its say. Water therefore sits somewhere on most garage roofs, and what standing water actually does over time is the reason it matters rather than a matter of tidiness. A re-board is the one moment in a garage roof's life when the slope can be corrected for the cost of the timber, which is why it is worth raising before the boards are ordered rather than after.

The choice

Repair, recover or replace on this particular roof

The general version of this decision, for any flat roof, is an options guide of its own. On a garage it narrows fast, because two of the usual unknowns are absent.

Repair

Right where the covering is broadly intact and the fault is a point rather than a condition: one split along a board joint, a lifted edge, an opened lap. Cheap, quick, and genuinely the answer more often than a roof salesman will tell you.

How a leak is traced and repaired

Recover

A new membrane over the prepared old one, no strip-off and no skip. Garages suit this better than most roofs, because a plain rectangle with nothing coming through it is the easiest shape in roofing to lay a continuous layer across. It needs dry boards and room for another layer.

The tests a covering has to pass first

Replace

Once the boarding has gone, or once so many layers have accumulated that another is a weight question rather than a waterproofing one. On garages the second reason is common, for the reason given further up this page.

What a full strip involves

Which system goes on, if the answer is recovering, is settled at the survey rather than here: the cold liquid route is what we recommend on most of them, with felt reserved for the roofs that argue for it, and the report names yours and gives the reason.

Renewal

What replacing a single-skin garage roof involves

Most garages are one brick thick with no cavity, and that changes what the roof is for. It is not only keeping the space below dry; its perimeter is also the weather protection for the top of the wall, because there is rarely an overhang worth the name and often no gutter that still works. A garage re-roof is therefore a perimeter job with a field in the middle, and the sequence follows that fact.

  • Everything comes off, including whatever has been added since, and what is underneath is finally visible.
  • The boarding is judged row by row. The outer row usually loses.
  • The timber where the roof bears on the brickwork is checked, not assumed, because that is the one piece whose failure is not a roofing repair.
  • The slope is set in the layer above the joists, which is the cheap moment to fix it.
  • A proper trim goes on all four edges with a drip beneath it, so the next thirty years of water leaves the building instead of tracking back under.
  • The covering goes down, and where it turns up against the house wall the junction is detailed rather than tucked.

Where there is no old roof at all, because the garage is new or is being rebuilt from the walls up, none of the above applies and the work is a roof designed from the drawings instead.

A boundary

Corrugated cement sheeting: the one we will not touch

Some older detached garages are not felted at all. They are roofed in corrugated cement sheeting, and on a garage of that age the sheeting may contain asbestos. We do not work on it. That is a boundary rather than a preference: cutting, drilling, breaking or lifting that material is precisely what releases fibres from it, and removing it is licensed work carried out by contractors who do nothing else.

What we do is recognise it and stop. If we arrive to price a job and find cement sheeting rather than a felted deck, you are told on the spot and again in writing, and no part of any quotation from us will involve touching it. Nor will we tell you whether it definitely contains asbestos, because identifying that takes a sample and a laboratory, and a roofer's opinion on it is worth nothing to you. Once the sheeting has gone and the structure has been made good by people qualified to do that, the roof that replaces it is ordinary work and we will quote for it gladly.

Money

Cheaper than the house roof, dearer than people expect

Both halves of that are true, and the second half causes all the disappointment, so it is worth setting out plainly. What genuinely makes a garage cheap is real: small area, simple shape, nothing penetrating it, nobody living underneath to protect, and on most of them a ladder and edge protection doing the work scaffold would have to do on a house.

What makes it dearer than the area suggests is equally real, and it is always the same three things.

  • Getting to it. Not height, distance. A garage at the foot of a rear garden with no side access means every roll, every board and every bag of stripped covering is carried by hand, and that is most of a morning gone before any roofing starts.
  • Getting rid of it. Stripped bitumen and water-logged boarding are heavy, and waste is charged by weight rather than by how modest the roof looked. Three accumulated coverings off a small garage can outweigh one covering off something twice its size.
  • The edges. This is the one nobody expects, and it is only arithmetic. Take a single garage at roughly three metres by six: eighteen square metres of field, and eighteen metres of perimeter to detail. A roof of a hundred square metres does not carry a hundred metres of perimeter, it carries around forty. Since nearly all the slow, skilled work on a flat roof happens at its edges, the smaller the roof the greater the share of it that cannot be hurried. A rate per square metre borrowed from a big roof gets a garage wrong every single time.

None of which produces a number on a web page. It produces a written price after somebody has stood on the roof, with what is known separated from what only opening it can settle.

Questions

Frequently asked questions

Is a garage roof worth repairing, or should it just be replaced?

Two things settle it, and both can be established in an hour on the roof: how many coverings have accumulated up there, and whether the boarding still holds a foot without giving. Sound boards under one tired covering usually point to recovering rather than renewal. Soft boards, or a stack of layers somebody has already added, point the other way.

My garage is roofed in corrugated cement sheeting. Can you work on it?

No. You will hear that on the day rather than after anybody has started. Sheeting of that kind on an older garage may contain asbestos, and cutting, lifting or drilling it is exactly what makes it dangerous. Removal is licensed work for contractors who do nothing else. Once it has gone and the structure has been made good, the new roof is ordinary work and we will quote for it.

Can a garage roof be recovered without stripping the old covering off?

Often, and garages suit it better than most roofs, because a plain rectangle with nothing coming through it is the simplest thing in roofing to lay a new membrane across. It needs the boarding underneath to test dry and it needs room for another layer. Where somebody has already overlaid it twice, weight rather than waterproofing becomes the objection.

Does a garage roof need scaffolding?

Usually not. Most single garages are low enough to work from a ladder with proper edge protection, which is one of the few genuine savings this type of roof offers. Scaffold earns its place where the garage is tall, where it is built into a slope, or where reaching it means crossing ground that belongs to somebody else.

Why is a small garage roof not much cheaper than a big one?

Because nearly all the slow work on a flat roof happens at its edges, and a small roof is almost all edge. Add the cost of getting materials and stripped waste to and from a building at the end of a garden, and the arithmetic people bring from a house roof stops working. It is still the cheaper job; it is rarely as cheap as the area suggests.

Tired garage roof, or one already letting water in?

Tell us roughly how old it is, whether anybody has re-covered it before, and how the garage is reached. Those three answers get us most of the way.

Give us a phone number or an email address, whichever suits you.

A picture of the stain inside, or of the roof if there is a safe window to take one from, usually saves a question. Your browser sends them as you choose them, so they are on their way before you press send.

Or call 07593 196505

Coming out and pricing the work is free; a written condition survey carries a fee, agreed before the visit and taken off the price of the work if you go ahead.